Posts Tagged ‘key’

MakerBot dad and Hero: snrk

Viktors Nyckel (spare key for piggybank) by snrk

Viktors Nyckel (spare key for piggybank) by snrk

What does a MakerBot dad do when his kid loses the key to his piggy bank?  Design and print a new one!

During the winter, my son lost the key for his piggybank. I tried to print a new one this January out of ABS, but that didn’t work. Today, he nagged me for another try, and with a little downsizeing, and PLA in my new Stepstuder, the key actually forced the pigs security system. Big win!

Hurray for snrk, dad and MakerBot hero!

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MakerBot Hero: Car Keys (Part IV)

MakerBot fixed key, front

MakerBot fixed key, front

And, here it is.  The fully 3D printed, fully functional replacement key fob housing.  It’s got all of the improvements discovered from the prior two revisions.  All of the parts fit snugly in the case, the case fits snugly together, and there is zero wobble between the key and the case.

MakerBot fixed key, back

MakerBot fixed key, back

One half has a 2mm lip and the other has a 2mm groove – the result is a case that required channel lock pliers to shut…  but isn’t coming apart any time soon.  All of the sides are at least 1.5mm – which is way thicker and sturdier than the original case.

No WAY is this case cracking after a simple drop.  From the EMPIRE STATE BUILDING.

This may just be my favorite 3D printer fix ever.

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MakerBot Hero: Car Keys (Part III)

First draft on the left, second draft on the right

First draft on the left, second draft on the right

I’d like to address some comments to the prior two posts.  The first post was essentially about identifying a problem that could be solved with a 3D printer.  In this case, it was the cracked plastic case for my mom’s car key fob.  The second post was about one method for measuring and documenting measurements in a meaningful way.  Basically I trace out the parts on a sheet of paper and draw in arrows indicating the dimensions.

@Mark wanted to know why I was breaking up the posts.

Well, originally I had intended to live-blog the process of identifying, measuring, designing, and printing the solution.  This was not to be for a variety of reasons.  Instead I opted to break what would be a very very long post into discrete sections. 12

@Alex Guichet wanted to know when you’d get to see the results and if this was just going to be a teaser.

I’ve broken the entire saga into four posts.  You’ll get to see the finished product at the end.  Promise.

Draft, the First

From the photo above you can see the first attempt on the left.  There were a number of deficiencies in this draft that I didn’t really think about until I was actually holding the part in hand.  In my zeal to measure the electronic-beeper-thingie and the metal key, I had completely forgotten to measure or design the less critical part that allows you to put the darn key on a keyring.  Next, the metal part that is the actual key is quite a bit thinner than the electronic-beeper-thingie.  As such, there needs to be a raised section that is only “key”-width rather than “beeper”-width.  In this first version you can see that there is no such raised section.  I also failed to include a hole for the small screw that holds the key in place and both sections together.  In this draft the two parts do not actually fit together, they are both just flat pieces that do not interconnect in any way.  I also noticed that I made the entire enclosure slightly too big vertically.  Just one more thing to tweak in the next version.

Once it was in my hand, I decided that the next version would allow a portion of one part to fit into a section of the other.  Just looking at the finished product was enough to help me realize all of these deficiencies – that’s why I didn’t even bother to clean the part up.  :)

Onwards and upwards!

Draft, the Second

From the photo above you can see the second attempt as the two parts on the right.  While these parts were much more suitable than the prior, there were still some issues to work out.  I included a section for the keyring, a hole for the screw to hold the key in place, a lip on one side and a bevel on the other so they would fit together, and I reduced the interior height by 2mm to reduce the extra room.  The parts fit together well – but came apart relatively easily.  I decided the next version would have an even larger lip.  It turns out that a reduction in 2mm was too much, since the electronic beeper just barely kept the parts from fitting properly.  Increase by 1mm.  I decided all of the buttons needed just a little more clearance on each side, so I gave them all 0.4mm more space.  I made created a recessed section for the screw head to disappear flush into the top section once installed.  Lastly, I also widened very slightly the two walls on either side of they key, since it was a very tight fit.

The benefits of drafting

Imagine you had to program by punch card.  Get one punch wrong and that card was toast.  Get one punch card wrong and your whole program was toast.  Sure, you could double, triple, and quadruple check your program by inspecting every punch and the order of every card…  But it’s not a very efficient use of time.  For modern programmers there is little penalty for just taking a chunk of code and firing it up.  The most common worst case scenario is an error code directing you to where the problem might exist.

Now, if software guys can try out a draft of code without any significant penalty, why not hardware guys? 3  I don’t need to get everything exactly right the first time – and I might even find a few improvements along the way.  With an investment of about 20 minutes of unattended printer time and $0.20 of plastic each I got to try out two interim designs – and improve my final design.

Up next:  The final results!

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  1. Like Dave Durant long post. []
  2. Dave, I kid because I love! []
  3. And, for that matter, why not tinkerers, makers, hackers, repair people, and dads? []
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