MakerBot Industries

OpenSCAD tut by BoriSpider

In this OpenSCAD tutorial series so far we’ve covered the basics of the OpenSCAD interface, how to make 2D forms, how to make some basic 3D forms, how to position those forms in 3D space, the different ways to combine forms, how to create mashups of one or more existing STL’s and OpenSCAD forms, and how to use modules to reuse your code to make your life easier.  Although I described the last three tutorials as “intermediate” levels, that’s really only because you learned the basics so quickly from the first few tutorials.  With just the basics you can literally design anything you can imagine.  The “intermediate” lessons will let you do a little more and make your life a lot easier.

Before we get started, the image is from BoriSpider‘s OpenSCAD tutorial homework.  I’d like to include a picture of your homework next time.  So, please practice making something in OpenSCAD, upload it to Thingiverse with an open license, and tag it with “openscadtutorial.”

• You may remember one of the first tutorials was about creating flat 2D forms using some simple commands.  Once you learned how to make 3D objects, it probably didn’t seem very interesting to play with the square, circle, and polygon commands.  However, there are still a lot of uses for these flat objects.   OpenSCAD gives us the ability to do some very interesting things with flat objects by giving them a third dimensional quality – thickness.
• Linear_Extrude
  • The “linear_extrude” command will let us basically take a flat object and give it thickness.  First, let’s take a basic object like a rectangle.
    1. square([20,30]);
  • Now, let’s use the “linear_extrude” command to give this rectangle a thickness of 13mm.
    1. linear_extrude(height = 13) square([20,30]);
  • You can even use this on a pile of flat objects or a module of flat objects.
    1. module flatstuff()
    2. {
    3. square(20);
    4. translate([10,20,0]) circle(10);
    5. translate([20,10,0]) circle(10);
    6. }
    7. linear_extrude(height = 13) flatstuff();
• DXF_Linear_Extrude
  • If you’ve mastered “linear_extrude”¹ you’re ready for a pretty easy and useful way to extrude DXF files.  A DXF file is a digital file commonly used on Thingiverse and elsewhere for laser cutting.  A DXF is basically a flat 2D drawing where the path of the 2D lines would b ecut by a laser or some other cutting method.
  • Let’s imagine you have a 3D printer – but no laser cutter.  Perhaps you’ve just found something amazing on Thingiverse for laser cutting, but you just can’t live without it.  Or, perhaps you want to print a replacement laser cut part for your 3D printer.  You can use the OpenSCAD “dxf_linear_extrude” command to work in much the same way as the above “linear_extrude” command.
  • Assuming your DXF file is in the same folder as your OpenSCAD installation, the following should work for you too:²
    1. dxf_linear_extrude(file=”pandorica13.dxf”, height=2);
  • Now instead of just a 2D outline of the image in the DXF file, you should have a 2mm thick object in the shape of your DXF!
  • Just so you know, OpenSCAD can be little finicky about the DXF files it imports.  It will need to be in “DXF R12″ format, otherwise it might use certain DXF features that aren’t supported by OpenSCAD.
• Rotate_Extrude
  • Since “rotate_extrude()” does something similar and has similar syntax, this would be a good time to cover it as well.  This command basically takes a flat object and spins in 360 degrees around the Z axis.  Let’s take a circle and see what happens when we spin it.
    1. rotate_extrude()
    2. circle(r = 10);
  • As you might expect, it turns a circle into a sphere.
  • Let’s see what happens when we offset that circle a little bit.
    1. rotate_extrude()
    2. translate([20,0,0])
    3. circle(r = 10);
  • You should now see a great big donut.  Since the circle is offset from the center of the Z axis, when it gets spun around the axis, it will leave a hole in the middle.

Homework assignment

Now that you’ve learned how to use three different kinds of extrusion in OpenSCAD, how about showing everyone what you can do?  See if you can find a DXF file on Thingiverse and extrude it into a part you could actually print.  When you’re done, upload your OpenSCAD file and the STL to Thingiverse.  As always, to make me extra proud be sure and tag it with “openscadtutorial.”  As if basking in my affection wasn’t enough, I’ll pick one someone’s OpenSCAD homework and use their designs as part of the next tutorial.

Bonus Section 1:  The Tutorials So Far

1. OpenSCAD Basics: The Setup
2. OpenSCAD Basics: 2D Forms
3. OpenSCAD Basics: 3D Forms
4. OpenSCAD Basics: Manipulating Forms
5. OpenSCAD Intermediates: Combining Forms
6. OpenSCAD Intermediates: Mashups
7. OpenSCAD Intermediates: Modularity
8. OpenSCAD Intermediates: Extruding 2D Objects
9. OpenSCAD Intermediates: Fixing Design Problems

Bonus Section 2:  Other sources

If you like reading ahead or want more information about OpenSCAD, I’ve found these websites to be very helpful.

1. Official OpenSCAD website
2. OpenSCAD User’s Manual
3. OpenSCAD beginner’s tutorial
4. OpenSCAD tutorial roundup on the Thingiverse blog
5. Inkscape to OpenSCAD DXF tutorial

Bonus Section 3:  What’s next???

The topic of the next tutorial is up to you.  What would you like to learn next?  Is there something you’d like to learn how to make?  Is there something more you’d like to learn about some of the topics we’ve covered?

1. I knew it wouldn’t take you long! [↩]
2. Say, for instance, you’re a fan of Doctor Who. [↩]

Chainmail by Zomboe

Wait…did this really just happen? Did I just see my colleague Charles Pax printing out chainmail on the other side of the BotCave? This day has arrived, my friends.

As Isaac pointed out a few minutes ago, while the Steampunk contingent regularly contributes to Thingiverse, MakerBots have not yet been fully exploited by the larger reenactment and Cosplay communities to the furthest extents possible. With some digital calipers and jar of paint, oh the blunderbusses and sword hilts that could be within your grasp!

Chainmail by Zomboe

Printed Parametric Chainmail I've been wanting to try this for a while. This is a sheet of interlocking rings, printed in place. The rings are basically square, with cut off corners. Two sets of diagonals cross each other at different heights, with four posts at the corners. Well, it makes sense when you see the pictures! This is the first thing I've designed in OpenSCAD, so the code is probably pretty sloppy. The major parameters that can be changed are the layer thickness and line width, along with ring size and number. I searched for "chainmail" on Thingiverse and the only result was a post by Vik on the Interlocking Rings thing: "Next, chainmail. Right?" So I hope you like this, Vik!

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PCB Milling Using A MakerBot Cupcake

MakerBot Operator Keith wanted to use his MakerBot CupCake to perform PCB milling. His MakerBot kit doesn’t come with a dremel mount — but when you are a MakerBot Operator, this is no obstacle. (Take a look at all of the incredible “dremel” related mods and toolholders up on Thingiverse.com here!)

One of the great benefits to buying a user-assembled, user-modifiable product from an Open Hardware company is that where other companies might seal up their cases with tamper-resistant torx screws, with a MakerBot you are welcome to roll up your sleeves and get hacking.

Keith has spent several weekends exploring how to mill PCBs with his CupCake (from first attempt, to first mod, to build surface tweak), figuring out what modifications he needed at each stage and then printing and/or building the solution. His project is gets closer and closer with each round of experimentation.

Many of our CupCake MakerBot Operators have now purchased our leveled-up, second generation printer, the MakerBot Thing-O-Matic, for their primary 3D printer. But rather than neglecting their hardy CupCakes they are willing to experiment with them, shift them into a number of new roles – from pen-plotting stations to ceramic printers to milling tools. The MakerBot Operators are an enterprising bunch who tend to share what they create and heap praise on the incredible innovation from their peers. Keep your eyes on the Thingiverse “Newest” category for an endless procession of interesting projects like Keith’s for ideas for what else you might do with your MakerBot. Beyond having a 3D printer on your desk to create anything you can dream of, that is.

This might be a new one for MakerBot: coverage on a gaming website.  Kotaku’s Leigh Alexander took notice of our booth during Thursday’s opening night at Blipfest.

If you’re not familiar with the chiptunes scene, the article gives a great overview of what it’s all about…but doesn’t quite tell you exactly how fun it is.  If it sounds good, or you haven’t seen a Thing-O-Matic printing yet, come on down to Eyebeam tonight!

If you’re out on the left coast, we haven’t forgotten about you — we’ll be at Maker Faire San Mateo this weekend.  We’re active on both coasts!

Oh, and the picture?  A MakerBotted Gameboy earring by Schorhr.  It’ll go over well at either event.  See you there!

Hey it’s Friday!  In light of that, we’ve whipped up another addition of Robot Hospital, which we hope you’ll enjoy.  We’ve got a new product announcement (new Nema 17 motors), a report from the Blip festival, where we’ll be demoing bots tonight and tomorrow, and the final installment of Matt’s squirrel modeling tutorial.

Zaggo's method for aligning and applying Kapton tape without bubbles

Veteran MakerBot Cupcake operator Zaggo recently documented and published his method for aligning and applying Kapton tape to a smooth surface without bubbles.  Anyone who has tried to put tape onto anything has probably had some trouble getting the tape to align properly and, if it’s being affixed to a smooth surface, removing any bubbles from under the tape.  Once the tape is down it’s either difficult to remove, introduces more bubbles and wrinkles when you lift it, or it can cause more bubbles, wrinkles, and misalignments when you lay it down again.

Zaggo has helpfully created a video (with awesome music!) to demonstrate his process.  If you’ve got one of the new Aluminum Build Surfaces for the Thing-O-Matic, you’re definitely going to want to check out this tutorial.

In case you’ve got YouTube blocked, his process basically involves cutting the Kapton to size, applying soapy water liberally to his glass surface, putting the Kapton and onto the wet soapy glass.  The soapy water will keep the Kapton from sticking, so you can easily move it around and align it.  Then he used a scraper (or squeege?) to squeeze out the water and any bubbles.  Once it dries, it should be stuck on perfectly.

The 3rd Ward MakerBot Make-A-Thon was awesome! Special thanks to MakerBot User Group New York for showing off their designs and introducing 3rd Ward members to MakerBot. Kyle McDonald used the interior of Michael Felix’s geodesic dome for his 3D Photo Booth. If Kyle scanned you, be sure to find yourself on Thingiverse here. Stay tuned for our next MakerBot User Group meeting and a continued collaboration between MakerBot and 3rd Ward.

For those of you who haven’t been reading our calendar, (bottom right of this page!) we will be doing a demo at Blipfest NYC tonight through Saturday.  If you don’t know about Blip, it’s the premier festival for chiptunes and 8-bit music, with great artists like nullsleep and former MakerBot artist Bubblyfish.  (She was responsible for a lot of the work on musical Cupcakes from last summer, including her own composition, the haunting Lullaby for a Makerbot.)

We’ll be showing off some Thing-O-Matics, printing some objects, and answering questions as best we can considering that the glitched-out computer jams might get a bit loud.  So head on down to Eyebeam, 540 W. 21st St, tonight through Saturday!  Hope to see you there!

I have to admit that a lot of my excitement about this object stems from the fact that guitar wall mounts are too large for ukuleles, and my tiny uke looks really ridiculous when I hang it from one of them.  (They might also be filled with too many guitars…)

So, the ukulele has to suffer the indignity of being shuffled from coffee table to desk to shelf when not in use — until now, thanks to rebuilder.  I’m very excited to print one of these out…maybe several if it fits mandolins!

Ukulele wall mount by rebuilder

Having sat on an Ukulele, I decided the best way to avoid pesky repairwork would be to hang the instruments up where I can't crush them. This does the job. I've included two versions of the object as STL. One has a thicker base in case your ukulele head ends up needing to go through a wall if you try to mount it on the thinner one. The thin version looks better, and for my instruments at least, I think would work even if I had mounted them on a wall instead of the top of a shelf as I did. Included is also the Blender file for these, which should be better suited for editing than the STLs.

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Now...lets just see...where am I? Brooklyn!

MakerBot Artist-In-Residence Kyle McDonald is already an expert in mapping objects with point clouds given his extensive work on structured light and 3D scanning with a Kinect via Processing. But he is also exploring another kind of mapping — grabbing topological¹ data and 3D printing it with a MakerBot Thing-O-Matic.

He’s not the first to attempt this — Lake and Mountain Topography and Mt Everest are other notable examples from the Thingiverse kingdom — but his hack makes the topography easier to read.

He uses the g-code command M1 machine halt² to pause the print to give you time to switch filaments. The results are a two-color topography where the critical elevation gain above the bottom color of filament is easier to read. Works great for sea-level topography where the transition maps to an easy to understand reference elevation. ((Though I’d love to see some sea trenches!)

This hack only works on a “tethered” MakerBot printing RepG at the moment, but is worth the hassle:

• The topographical data is freely available here.
• Generate the STL with Kyle’s custom app here.
• Then search through the gcode for just before the M101 command for the first G1 command including the z-height where you’d like the transition, and drop an “M1″ on its own line.
• I’d suggest sandwiching a “20mm up, 20mm” down waiting position script around the M1 command to keep from oozing while you fiddle with the filament, but you should code to taste.
• If there is an active M101 command you will be extruding while you switch filament! You need to find a sweet spot between an M103 and an M101.

Kyle was standing somewhere just above the thumb when he took this picture!

NYC Elevation Map by kylemcdonald

A topographical map of NYC based on the 1/3 arc second NED data from the USGS. Generated with a custom app available at github.com/kylemcdonald/Makerbot/tree/master/NedToStl

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1. From topology to topography [↩]
2. that might be vanishing as an option soon [↩]