MakerBot Industries

We are pleased to announce another step forward for the MakerBot personal manufacturing system, our redesigned MK6 Thermal Core, Cartridge heater, and Safety Cutoff Switch! The StepStruder™ MK6 Plus now ships with the upgraded Heater kit shown, and Thing-O-Matic owners with the MK5 Plastruder and StepStruder with 5ohm Resistors can upgrade easily! Thing-O-Matic orders shipped after 4/14 will receive this upgrade.

All the new heater parts are compatible with the standard MK5 Plastruder mounting hardware, nozzles, and electronics. CupCake CNC owners with a MK5 or MK6 can upgrade too! The new cartridge heaters and Aluminum Thermal core heat up and cool down much faster, making for less time waiting for your Bot to come up to temperature. The new internal position of the cartridge heater inside the Aluminum Thermal Core improves heat transmission to the filament, which makes extruding smoother. It’s another incremental improvement to your Bot specially designed to improve your experience with 3mm and 1.75mm filament and the new MK6 Nozzles. Check it out!

Mk6 Plus Heater Upgrade<-- The complete set of upgrade items!
MakerBot Safety Cutoff Switch
MK6 Plus Safety Cutoff Thermostat
Mk6 Plus Aluminum Thermal Core
Mk6 Plus Cartridge Heater

Four of our classic plastics now available on Spools!

Natural ABS 1kg Spool 3mm Filament
Green ABS 1kg Spool 3mm Filament
Black ABS 1kg Spool 3mm Filament
Black ABS 1kg Spool 1.75mm Filament

More Spool Plastics in the Store!

Printable Clock, Parametric Proof of Concept by syvwlch

Syvwlch has been busy at work on his printable clock over the last week.  He’s produced SEVEN iterations of this design so far.  I’m a huge advocate for posting unfinished or even obsolete designs – the is a perfect example of the benefits.  At any point someone could have jumped in to help out with these designs, the formulas, or contributed code.

Following the evolution of his designs as been very educational for me.  I’ve struggled with how best to design a multi-part mechanical device.  Syvwlch clearly has the right idea – starting with the centermost component – the escapement mechanism – and building outwards upon it.

Printable Clock, Parametric Proof of Concept by syvwlch

Another proof of concept along the way to a WORKING printable clock. A working clock would, for example, have a case. :-) Aside from such petty concerns, this clock is complete, in that we have a power source (a drum to wind a string and weight), a whole gear train (5/3/2/2/5/3/2/2), a Graham escapement, a (token) pendulum and three hands mounted on concentric shafts to show the time. It is fully parametric, animate-able, and about as modular as I could make it within the current constraints of OpenSCAD (recursion would be nice for the eight gears in the gear train!). The code uses three different types of gear wheels, each able to support any level of nested concentric shafts if needed for support or to run clock hands: 1. A drum with an outer gear along one rim, 2. A pinion wheel with a gear supporting a smaller gear, 3. An escapement wheel supporting a smaller gear. It also automatically positions them relative to each other, ensures that they mesh properly and rotates them according to the correct gear ratios to support animation and to check the design. It uses the involute gear script from the MCAD library, and my own escapement library. I intend to move as much of the script into another library at some later date, and like in some of my previous scripts, to provide both the current assembled() module and a handy laidOutToPrint() module. Lastly, the modular nature of this PoC should allow for separate tweaking of the various components of the clock until they all work, without having to print an entire clock every time. (EDIT: fixed a bug, kindly pointed out by DaveD, and uploaded a fixed version of the OpenSCAD script, along with an exploded version of the STL and a JPEG of same.)

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Neil over at Traintalk.tv recently got his hands on a Thing-O-Matic kit, with the idea that he’ll use the ‘bot to print out small, detailed objects for his model railroads.  As you can see, he’s off to a good start, but he’s going to need some help getting awesome 3d models to spruce up the old HO-scale down in the basement.

He also had his new Thing-O-Matic at Supertrain (Canada’s largest model train show) in Calgary this last weekend, so I’d guess he just tuned in a few train folks to 3d printing.  I’m hoping that we start seeing a few more train-related items over at Thingiverse!

The MakerBot section starts at about 3:22, but Neil is visiting a cool train museum in the first half of the show, and I suggest that you check it out if you’ve got any tendency towards trainspotting. Spoiler: there is a really cool postal car.

Act quickly!

It’s the CupCake CNC Ultimate : Blowout!! We have all the components we need to sell the last remaining stock of the CupCake machine, and it’s for sale online NOW!

We have reduced the price to a blistering $699.00 to encourage our users to grab another CupCake while they can. This is a great time to buy a 3D printer as a gift as well, because it’s an incredible value. The CupCake CNC has been featured in articles and media around the world, and we are down to the very last units. We have them shipping with a one week lead time, so it’s the fastest, cheapest way to get a 3D printer in your hands and get started printing. Got one bot hanging out all lonesome like? Build it a brand new Bot to keep it company! These are our stock CupCake Ultimate CNCs, and when they are gone, close the curtains, because the CupCake CNC show is a glorious wrap!

You might remember a few weeks ago when we announced that the Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum, had acquired a Thing-O-Matic. Well, registration is now open for a FREE Cooper-Hewitt workshop for teens, focused on prototyping with a MakerBot. Starting on April 30th, the workshop will consist of five hands-on sessions led by MakerBot’s Matt and Mike: four at Tekserve, with a fifth hosted by MakerBot in the BotCave and BotFarm for final prints and critiques.

For more information, take a look at the Cooper-Hewitt posting for the series here. Very limited slots, so register quickly!

Workshop participants will learn to:

• Design and print prototypes in 3-D.
• Use 3-D apps like Rhino, Blender and brand-new Tinkercad. (We are going to tune our choices a bit based on experience of teens participating.)
• Assemble, modify, and troubleshoot Makerbot hardware and software.

Mike and I are looking forward to team teaching this series. Also, we will be sharing our curriculum, tips & tricks, and student models-in-progress with the MakerBot community here and at Thingiverse for those of you who don’t live in NYC and will miss out on this opportunity.

Inkscape for Unicorn Users

I’m not a veteran Inkscape user by any means. ¹  I’ve learned just enough about Inkscape to be able to make use of Schmarty’s excellent Inkscape->Gcode plugin and print fun things out on my Unicorn.  In case you’re new to Inkscape as well, here are a few things you’d need to know to make the most of it with your Unicorn.

1. How to convert a JPG or PNG into an SVG using Inkscape
   1. File -> Import -> [your file]
   2. Select all
   3. Path -> Trace Bitmap
   4. Click “Grays”
   5. Choose a number under “Scans”
      • I have been using 6, but use whatever gives you the desired effect.  This will essentially “posterize” your object into at most 6 shades of gray.  This is the setting with which you’re really going to want to experiment.
      • The Gcode output by Schmarty’s excellent Inkscape->Gcode plugin will instruct the Unicorn to draw each layer.  The more colors, the more layers.  This could be a good thing if you’re switching out pens.
   6. Select all
   7. Path -> Object to Path
   8. File -> Save As -> [your desired file name or type]
2. How to change units for the ruler in Inkscape
   1. File -> Document Properties -> Page -> Default units [your favorite unit]
3. How to change your default template in Inkscape
   1. Configure a blank SVG file exactly as you want your new default template to look
      • I like to use a default template based on the dimensions of a standard office sticky-note.
   2. Save your blank SVG file as “default.svg” somewhere convenient
   3. Navigate to your “Templates” folder for Inkscape
      • This will usually be in a subdirectory of your Inkscape installation, but may vary depending upon your operating system.
      • I’m using the PortableApps version of Inkscape² , so my Templates directory on Windows is “InkscapePortable\App\Inkscape\share\templates”
   4. Rename the current “default.svg” to something else
      • You may want to come back to it some day.  If that’s a possibility, I’d recommend “default_original.svg” or some variation thereof.
   5. Cut and paste the “default.svg” you created above to the “Templates” folder

1. Inkscape is a free open source vector drawing program. [↩]
2. I have this thing about commitment. [↩]

Thing9 by Zomboe

I find myself printing Zomboe‘s Snake model essentially every time I calibrate a bot or want to offer a quick wow to someone who hasn’t experienced 3D printing before. That model is truly one of the most popular hits of the T-verse as printed in the BotCave.¹

Seeing his outstanding Thing9 yesterday it occurred to me that I haven’t been singing my praises for his ThingSeries, which he has been adding to for nearly a year now. Now, here is a modeler unafraid to let his imagination run wild and to keep pushing the limits of what he can model and print on a regular basis. I find myself challenged and inspired by this series. And while he didn’t design these for the Thing-O-Matic, the latest developments with the Stepstruder MK6 on a Thing-O-Matic allow for more satisfying scaled-to-build-envelope prints of Zomboe’s pieces than were previously possible.

Somewhere between tech experiments, contagious nightmares, and cute and cuddly Tim Burton-esque figurines, Thing1 through Thing9 are worth examining again in the order of release to get a sense of the progress of his experimentation. I can’t get enough of Thing9 — it feels to me like a set-piece for a stopmotion HP Lovecraft children’s movie.² These models are also great tests for tweaking Skeinforge : Reversal settings. Or try turning Reversal entirely off for a few of these to create models that actually benefit aesthetically from stringing.

Thing1 by Zomboe

I was playing around in Alibre Design and came up with this thing. I think it might be an eyeball monster. I've included small and big version STLs as well. I tried to color part of the eye using a blue sharpie but it bled horizontally because of the layers. So I ended up just coloring the whole thing :). Maybe paint would work better? Dimensions: Small   37.5mm x 34.0mm x 47.1mm tall Regular 50.0mm x 45.3mm x 62.8mm tall Large   75.0mm x 67.0mm x 94.1mm tall

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Thing2 by Zomboe

Here's another thing, my first attempt at a tower. The columns on the second level are a little too close together but it still comes out pretty nice. It is just under 130mm tall so it should be possible on a MakerBot. A large size is also included, in case you're feeling ambitious! Dimensions: Regular 60.0mm x 52.7mm x 129.7mm tall Large   84.0mm x 73.7mm x 181.5mm tall

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Thing3 by Zomboe

This thing can probably be used as a toothbrush holder. The four holes might be a little small for some toothbrushes, but you could use the larger center hole. Or try the included large version. It also makes a decent base for Thing2. If you flip it upside-down, it can be a cool looking base/support for something, like a glass of water. Dimensions: Small   60.0mm diameter x 79.3mm tall Regular 75.0mm diameter x 99.1mm tall Large   90.0mm diameter x 119.0mm tall

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Thing4 by Zomboe

This is possibly some sort of vase or jug. The five things on the outside kinda remind me of tentacles. To increase your chances of printing this watertight, you could try increasing the extrusion rate (RPM). At best I've only been able to print this "almost watertight"; it usually leaks around the bottom. Dimensions: 89.6mm diameter x 100.8mm tall

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Thing5 by Zomboe

This thing is the result of semi-randomly placing 3mm beams and posts. It could almost be some kind of weird city. There are a couple of unsupported spots, but you could just pretend the resulting strings are power lines or something. Dimensions: 60.1mm x 60.1mm x 40.3mm

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Thing6 by Zomboe

This thing looks like it could be a distant relative of Thing1. It's not entirely clear how it would walk around; maybe it prefers standing still. Thing6-Short is a shorter version (it is just Thing6 with the bottom 20 legs [toes?] cut off, but don't tell it). I haven't printed it yet but it looks sorta interesting. Dimensions: Thing6          72.8mm x 70.7mm x 113.1mm tall Thing6-Short  66.8mm x 60.0mm x 85.1mm tall

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Thing7 by Zomboe

Reminiscent of a lotus flower or maybe an artichoke. Due to its delicate nature, it is purely decorative. More than anything else I've printed, this one was really mesmerizing to watch print. When printing, try to eliminate oozing and strings through software as much as possible. Be careful when cleaning up any remaining strings. The second set of petals is especially fragile. Dimensions: Thing7:      87.5mm x 87.5mm x 63.5mm tall Thing7Small: 70mm x 70mm x 50.8mm tall

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Thing8 by Zomboe

This one has a really nice star shaped base. And a lot of strings! The droopier one reminds me of a spider web. If not for the hole in the base it could be a decent pen/pencil holder. This Thing was designed with the filament's tendency to droop in mind. Those thin rings in the model should print as single sagging filaments. I designed and printed with 0.3mm layers, but I imagine a little bit larger or smaller should work. The first print I did was white PLA at 205 degrees. It drooped a little more than I wanted, so I printed it again at 190 degrees. But that one didn't droop at all! I think both look nice. I will have to try again at around 200 degrees though. I am not sure how much it will droop in ABS, give it a try. Make sure to turn support off! Dimensions: 77.5mm x 73.8mm x 81.6mm tall

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Thing9 by Zomboe

Here is a tower-like thing. That extra support thing kind of looks like a leg. In fact, it almost looks like the whole thing is crawling through that hole in the wall. This one gave me a lot of trouble printing, mostly in the transition area from the "trunk" to the "top". Even though the overhang is only 45 degrees, I have been getting a lot of drooping printing in PLA. I think I just need more airflow to cool it. I would expect fewer problems in ABS. In addition to Thing9, I made Thing9Top to experiment with printing that feature. It doesn't look bad on its own, so I'm including it below. Dimensions: Thing9: 59.2mm x 57.6mm x 102.6mm tall Thing9Top: 26.0mm x 26.0mm x 57.1mm tall I did learn two interesting things about my printer (RapMan 3.0) from multiple attempts at printing this, both pretty obvious in hindsight. Printing Thing9Top gave different results, in the same areas, than Thing9, just due to the height above the print plate. When the print head is low, the air from the fan blows down and across the plate, cooling the print well. When the head is high, like near the top of Thing9, the RapMan's fan produces much less horizontal airflow. Also, since the fan is positioned on one side of the extruder, cooling is much greater on that side. The "spokes" on that side turned out perfect, while those on the opposite side drooped. I saw the same effect previously while printing a dodecahedron, but didn't figure out why. These effects don't matter if you don't use a fan while printing, but I thought it would be worth mentioning them for the few that do. Also, it is easier to blame my printer than the 3D model ;).

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Snake by Zomboe

(Alternate name: Articulated Python) When I was little, I had a wooden snake just like this (but better). The cutouts allow it to bend. So I thought I'd print out something similar to see if it would work. In PLA it is kinda stiff. A more flexible material would probably be better. I made the snake short so that it would fit on a Makerbot, so it came out kinda chubby. It could actually be a little bit longer and still fit. At some point I will design and post a longer version for RapMan/Mendel sized beds. Or maybe a modular snake! Oh and the STL has some weird stuff on the edges of the nose, but it doesn't seem to hurt anything when printing. Dimensions: 80.2mm x 80.2mm x 11.3mm tall (It is printed diagonally, the snake itself is around 110mm long) EDIT (Feb 11, 2011) I've included an alternate file, SnakeThin.STL. This version has a thinner core that should be only a single layer thick. It ends up being much more flexible. Skeinforge kept giving me trouble with the core so I scaled up the model slightly. SnakeThin dimensions: 84mm x 84mm x 11.7mm tall

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1. At CES and MakerFaire this past year, I watched individuals sit for the entire ~15min print just so she or he could be the one to grab it as it rolled off the front of the ABP. [↩]
2. And makes me want to make such a movie! [↩]

The kobolds spring from their ambush suddenly, surprising the wily ranger with a bevy of attacks before he could unsheathe his trusty bastard sword +2, “Nafralgur.”

Mark it down, the ranger loses 6 hp.

Finally, Tauron, the rugged ranger, brings his blade to bear on the nearest foe…and he hits!

OK, lemme see, that’s going to be 1d8 plus 2…let me see, where is that thing the 8-sided die, I just printed dougkeenan‘s design from Thingiverse…it’s really cool because the numbers are super legible.  Hmmm…where is that thing…I just…ok guys, go get some sodas while I print another one.  That was a critical hit anyway, so that kobold’s toast.  The others flee in fear into the recesses of the cavern.  Um…get me some cheese curls too, ok guys?

Error - could not find Thing 7818.

Error - could not find Thing 7841.

DC Fan holder by tatsuya

I was disappointed a few months back when a design I really liked had disappeared from Thingiverse.  Works in progress, unfinished designs, finished components of an unfinished design, and, yes, even bad designs all make Thingiverse a richer and more vibrant world.  In fact, finished designs are a lie.  A design can always be improved in some way. ^1 2

Even if your design doesn’t work, others can learn from it, learn from your mistakes, improve upon your designs, or become inspired to pick up where you left off.  Heck, the design that failed for you might even be perfect for a completely different application.

This is one of the reasons why I like tatsuya’s design for a DC fan holder.  After posting his design he realized that by calibrating his stepper boards, his Thing-O-Matic Z axis stepper motor wouldn’t overheat anymore. ³ If anything, he probably got even more likes and comments after he fixed his calibration issue.

So, even if you’re not happy with your design or you think it’s become obsolete, please upload it to Thingiverse and, whatever you do, please don’t delete it!

DC Fan holder by tatsuya

Thing-O-Matic Z-axes stepper motor is very hot. I made a holder to make cool-down in DC fans. 40mm FAN Countersunk screw M3x14 and M3 nut

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1. If this were the ’80′s, anything could be improved by adding a clock-radio to it. [↩]
2. But, since this is now 2011 – it can be improved by someone making it connect to various social networks. [↩]
3. For other Thing-O-Matic owners – calibrating your stepper boards is kind of a pain – but a seriously critical step in getting the best results from your printer. [↩]

Just as a blank canvas can be almost intimidating in its possibility, it can be equally difficult fully convey the potential of 3D printing to someone who’s not familiar with it.  You can sit someone down and explain that your machine can make ANYTHING, including more machines…  but this doesn’t actually wow as many people as you think.¹

But what if you could walk into an office building and permanently improve every single person’s work environment using a 3D printer?  You might actually have their attention then.  Imagine what it could do for workplace ergonomics.  You could print something to improve the tilt on a computer monitor, raise armrest on a chair, or, as Thingiverse citizen BenJackson demonstrates – print up a more comfy footrest.  I’d bet that pretty soon people would come up with more ways to use their office 3D printer to crank out some things for home too.

BenJackson’s contribution might be a humble footrest – but I think it really opens the door to showing people just how useful 3D printing can really be.

Comfort Footrest for SKRUVSTA by BenJackson

The IKEA SKRUVSTA chair is hard on your feet if you prop them on the swivel base. This comfort footrest slides over the top of each arm of the base, keyed in place by the original plastic caps. Might also work with JULES, SNILLE SKRUVSTA: ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80121649

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1. Or maybe that’s just me. [↩]