Configuring Skeinforge: Configuring the latest version of Skeinforge with David Durant!!!

Dave Durant makes Skeinforge less spooky

Dave Durant makes Skeinforge less spooky

Dave Durant has continued his series on how to configure Skeinforge for your 3D printer1  Although Dave prefaces his comments by saying these are not necessarily recommended settings, he (again!) does a great job of going through each setting available in Skeinforge 033 and explaining why he is using that particular setting – along with suggestions of when those parameters may not be appropriate for your ‘bot.

Starting at ReplicatorG version 0020, the folks at MakerBot are also including a recent version of Skeinforge. w00T!!

I’ve been advocating moving up to more recent versions of skeinforge for months now, mostly because I think I can sorta figure out how to configure them. The older versions just make me go cross-eyed and confuse me. YMMV.

Since my last blog post was a bit (or more than a bit.. or even a LOT more than a bit) long winded and preachy, I’ll try to keep this one short. Below’s my notes on going through all the modules in skeinforge 33, the latest as of today. Note that this isn’t really “Dave’s recommended settings.” It’s more like, “where to start things, if you’re moving up from an old version.”

Bottom: This is new, as of version 32 or so. I’m not sure what it does but it seems to be the “bottom” parameters that used to be in the Raft module so I’m leaving it enabled and just taking the default values.

I think the “bottom” params in raft used to control how high the nozzle was at the very start of the print. Since I always tweak a Z pulley when I start printing, I don’t care too much about this one

Carve: Absolutely enable this. This one contains two of my Big 4 (or 5) parameters, Layer Thickness and Perimeter Width Over Thickness. Those two I care about, the rest I just leave as they are.

Chamber: Disabled. I think this is for heated build chamber. Like, if your bot was all enclosed in a temperature controlled environment, you’d want to enable this and figure out some reasonable values to plug in here.

Clip: Enabled. Clip is sortofa method that looks for parts of the print that are really close together and clips bits off, to keep too much plastic from being put down.

I’m very sure that the values you plug in here could be tweaked to get a little more performance out of your bot but I suspect it’s a 2% thing – good to learn if you really want the absolute best prints you can get but not really worth it for most people. I take the default values.

Comb: Enabled. I love comb. Comb rules.

Comb basically tells skeinforge to not let the extruder move outside the perimeter if it can avoid it. This makes a HUGE difference (in a good way) in cleanup times but does add to the total print time. Unless you’re really, REALLY interested in the quickest print you can get, just leave it enabled.

Cool: Disabled. This is an interesting module but I think DC extruders (which virtually all Makerbot people have) don’t play well with it.

Cool lets you tell skeinforge the minimum amount of time it should spend on each layer. If a layer is going to take less than that amount of time, skeinforge will add gcode to orbit around – aka: waste time – until that minimum is reached.

This is a great idea but unless you really have ooze under control, you probably don’t want to use it. If you don’t have ooze under tight control and enable Cool, it’s going to make a huge mess.

Also, if you do want to enable it but don’t have a stepper extruder, don’t use the Slow Down option. Slow Down tells it to drop the flow and feed rates down instead of orbiting – with a DC motor, the extruder will stall and you’ll get no plastic coming out.. Bad.

Dimension: Disabled. This is for “5D” stuff that’s not supported (yet??) on Makerbots. The 5D stuff, if I understand it correctly, are extensions to gcode that lets the extruder move faster on diagonals than it does on straight-X or straight-Y lines. Nice feature but not something Makerbots can use.

Export: Enabled. Not 100% sure what this does…

Some types of machines process the gcode in the firmware and one thing Export allows you to do is strip all the comments (stuff that’s user readable but ignored by the machine) out of the gcode. In theory, if you have lots of comments in the gcode and the machine isn’t very fast, stripping out comments will help prevent problems.

On a Makerbot, the gcode is processed by your PC (or Mac or whatever) so this isn’t much use for Makerbots. Leave it enabled, tell it to strip comments out or not – I leave them in but it doesn’t really mattter.

Fill: Enabled!!! I spend more time in Fill than I do anywhere else. More on this module later (next post?) but once you get your profile all nice and dialed in, this is pretty much the only place you need to be when you want to print something.

Fillet: Disabled. This is another interesting module that I don’t use very often. Fillet sorta rounds off sharp corners in the object, which can help if you’re suffereing from quality problems due to high feed rates.

Picture printing a perfectly square cube. There’s lots of “full power to X. Stop X! Full power to Y. Stop Y! Full reverse on X!” over and over. This can encourage belt-related issues like backlash. Fillet lessens these issues by rounding things off of a little.

In general, I’d say disable it for prints that require bolts and bearings and things – stuff that’s been measured out and has bits that fit together – and enable it for more organic-type object that don’t require precision.

Home: Disabled. This allows you to add a bit of custom gcode to the start of every layer. I’m sure there are good reasons why you might want to do this but I don’t think any apply to Makerbots..

Hop: Disabled. Not really sure what this does but I think it sorta tells skeinforge to add more into the Z increase at the end of a layer then drop back down for the start of the next layer.

Inset: Enabled. Another one I’m not to sure on but I think it controls tweaks on how to remove overlapping bits of the print that will likely cause blobs. I just leave this at the default values.

Jitter: Disabled. You know that extra little blob of plastic you sometimes get at the point where the Z goes up to the next layer? This module causes Z to move up in a different place on each layer, which spreads out those blobs.

Personally, I don’t get those blobs too much any more and they don’t really bother me anyway. I leave this module disabled but feel free to enable it, if you want.

Lash: Disabled because I haven’t gotten to mess with it yet. This seems to be about controlling backlash – that bit of lag you get when the X or Y steppers quickly start/stop/reverse. I suspect it won’t work well on a Makerbot but haven’t tried it yet.

Limit: Disabled but this is near the top of my list of things to mess with. Yet another module I’m fuzzy on but it seems to control the maximum feed rates of the gcode.

In particular, I’m eyeing the Maximum Z Feed Rate. If upping this value actually makes the Z stage move faster, it will go on my list of things to always enable – it should (might) help a lot with those blobs you get when Z moves up to the next layer.

If you want to enable this and see if you can make your Z blobs disappear, make sure to disable Jitter first.

Multiply: Enabled. Multiple is another one that rules. Enable it, set both Number of Rows and Number of Columns to 1 and skeinforge will automatically make sure your object is centered and on the platform. Very helpful.

If you want to print multiply copies of an object at once, you can mess with the rows and columns values – this is useful on small objects, since they tend to print too quickly and have heat problems. (which Cool would also help, if we had stepper extruders or well-controlled ooze)

Oozebane: Disabled. Oozebane tries to limit ooze (the extra strings you have to clean up post-print) by shutting the extruder off a little early. It can also turn the extruder on a little early if you have lag between when the machine is supposed to start and when it actually starts.

Probably very useful but I think it’s tricky to configure correctly and don’t use it.

Preface: There’s no enable/disable on this one. Take the defaults.

Raft: Enabled, even if you don’t want to print rafts. Actually, I’m not sure this always needs to be enabled now, since the temperature settings moved to a different module – they used to be in raft.

I just leave it enabled anyway. If you don’t want to print a raft, just set Base Layers and Interface Layers to 0 instead of disabling it.

Speed: Enabled. Two more of the Big 4 (or 5) settings live here: flow rate and feed rate.

Splooge: Disabled. Yet another module that I’m not to sure on. Seems related to oozebane.

Temperature: Enabled. This is where you can tell skeinforge to use different temperatures for different parts of the object. Note the Cooling and Heating rates in this module – if you use different temperatures for different parts of the object, these control how long skeinforge will orbit between the different parts. (I use the same temp for everything because I don’t want it to orbit)

Tower: Disabled. Another good (or at least interesting) module that I don’t use. Say you want to print ”I I” standing up. Tower tells it to print multiple layers of one leg then drop back down and print multple layers of the other leg.

This is useful because you’ll have a lot less ooze between legs but beware using it on objects that have small legs – using tower on objects like that will encourage heat-related problems which, IMO, are worse than ooze.

Unpause: Disabled. I think this tries to bump up your feed rate a bit to compensate for processing delays on complicated objects.

If you have problems printing things like bolt holes or other feature that have lots and lots of little turns in them, you can try enabling this. Beware having your feed rate times the Unpause “Maximum Speed (ratio)” being higher than your maximum useful feed rate, though – if you speed things up too much, your print will end up worse than before.

Widen: Disabled. Yet another module I’m not sure of.

Wipe: Disabled. This one’s good if your ‘bot has a toothbrush. This lets you send the bot to some particular position at the end of every layer so the extruder nozzle can get cleaned off.

If you set the Wipe Period to some big number, it should do this only at the very start of the print, before it does anything else. If you’ve got some sort of brush mounted in your bot, this is useful for auto-cleaning up the test extrusion.

That’s it!

Next up: Creating a new profile…

Thanks Dave!

  1. Photo courtesy of Great Beyond []
Tagged with , , , 6 comments
 

6 Comments so far

  • Erik
    November 4, 2010 at 7:56 pm
     

    5D is actually X,Y,Z, extrusion and acceleration as DDA axes. If something goes wrong, your extruder will not continue to run (and change your extruder into a lump of ABS) and acceleration can give you all sorts of benefits (though I currently have it turned off on my machines, I must admit)

     
  • TomC
    November 6, 2010 at 10:05 pm
     

    I can’t believe Ive only just discovered ‘comb’! Ive spent so much time over the last year cleaning models when I could have just selected this. Thanks!

     
  • More linkage « Metro State 3D Fab
    January 17, 2011 at 9:51 am
     

    [...] Calibration settings discussion Calibrating Skeinforge pt1 Calibrating Skeinforge pt2 Calibrating Skeinforge pt3 Calibrating Skeinforge [...]

     
  • robonut
    March 1, 2011 at 7:10 am
     

    Dave says here he hasn’t enabled the Jitter feature because he doesn’t really get the problem of little blobs when the Z axis moves up a layer.

    Well I do! Just ruined a big print because the little blobs were hardened by the time the nozzle got back around to that location again for the next layer, and therefore knocked the model out. I could hear it hit the blob and see the model almost lose its grip every layer.

    Anyone got any good tips for how to get rid of the Z layer increment blob? I think my feeds/flow rate settings are ok, the rest of the print and calibration cube prints look pretty good.

     
  • Dave Durant
    March 1, 2011 at 2:28 pm
     

    I got rid of the majority of them by turning off oozebane.. Not perfect but worked enough.

     
  • Twotimes
    March 1, 2011 at 2:31 pm
     

    Hey robonut, just change the fill setting to do loops/permitter/infill in fill and make sure that you have at least one extra shell in sparse layers. The blobs will get incorporated into the part.

     
 

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